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In Search of Hard-Crusted Bread in Chicago

Hans
Posted by Hans on Apr 28, 2015

Bread is a big part of our diet in Germany, however, it's not the kind of bread you find at the grocery store. I'm talking about what we call “artisanal bread” here in the States. For example, in Germany, a simple breakfast may include sliced ham, a couple of hard crust artisanal rolls or bread, soft cheese like Brie or a couple slices of Swiss or butter cheese. Plain and simple, yet delicious!

bread

Bread, in most cases, is actually under-baked. It seems that in an effort to save money and time, most bakers fail to allow the bread to rise and be baked completely. The breads we get at the grocery store, oftentimes, are too soft, dry, and lack flavor. As much as we love a good sandwich, it seems that we forget that it all starts with good bread. It took a while for me to find a good bakery near my neighborhood of Edgewater. The issue boils down to supply and demand. Unfortunately, the demand for hard-crusted bread is low, leaving me with fewer places to shop for what I call "good bread."

Red Hen Bread offers a great variety of good breads, which can be found at different locations throughout Chicago. My favorite bakery is Benisson’s Bakery in Evanston. They are a real North Shore institution, having been in business since 1938. Among their great selection of breads is Spelt bread, which is a healthy and ancient grain (apparently is mentioned in the Old Testament and some ancient Roman texts), that may not be as common to most people. Benisson’s is well represented at most farmers' markets, one of my favorites being Green City Market in Lincoln Park.

Just recently, I discovered Baker and Nosh in Uptown. This is a cute bakery where everything is made from scratch and in small quantities, but you better get there before noon because they sell out quick! Baker and Nosh offers a small but hearty menu paired with homemade soups and great coffee.  

BakerNosh

Here at The Chopping Block, we offer bread making classes if you’re interesting in learning how to bake bread at home. We've got more Artisanal Bread classes coming up in the fall and in the meantime, here is a recipe from that class to get you started.

Multigrain Bread

Yield: 1 large loaf  or 2 small loaves

Active time: 25 minutes

Start to finish: 9 hours, 35 minutes

1/2 cup rolled (old-fashioned) oats

1/3 cup flax seeds

3/4 cup wheat bran

1/3 cup corn meal (coarse ground)

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup water

Dough:

1/2 ounce fresh yeast

3/4 cup warm water

8 ounces bread flour

8 ounces whole wheat flour

1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon vegetable oil

1 egg

1 1/4 teaspoons sea salt

  1. To prepare the soaker, mix the grains and salt in a bowl and stir in the water. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and leave to soak for at least 6 and up to 12 hours.
  2. To mix the dough, combine all the ingredients, including the soaked grains. Stir to begin incorporating everything, then knead for 5 or 6 minutes, until a smooth dough is achieved. Round the dough into a ball, place it in a bowl, cover and let rise for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, until doubled.
  3. Preheat the oven to 425°.
  4. Punch down the dough and divide in half. Shape into loaves, and place on a  parchment-lined sheet tray or in a lightly oiled loaf pan. Cover and let proof for 45 minutes to 1 hour.
  5. Bake until the loaf sounds hollow when you tap the bottom, about 40 minutes. Remove from the pans immediately and cool completely.

If you can't wait until the fall to perfect your kneading skills, our Culinary Boot Camp 2 covers all kinds of sweet and savory doughs. You don't have to take Culinary Boot Camp 1 first, but it's recommended. See how much fun you can have in a week! 


boot_camp_long

Topics: baking, Recipes, bread

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