Summer is when my husband’s family reunites around Boston. While this might conjure up images of colonial history tours, navigating the Freedom Trail, and riding swan boats in the Boston Commons, most of the time is spent in several of Boston’s bedroom communities. I think they have more than Chicago! It also means eating at nostalgic pizza and ice cream establishments of my husband’s youth.
Pizza at Town Spa Pizza in Stoughton, MA and ice cream at Crescent Ridge Dairy Bar in Sharon, MA happen without question on each reunion trip.
Let’s address the name first. No, you won’t get a massage with your mozzarella. But Town Spa Pizza has been feeding happy, greasy-fingered families since 1955. The story begins with Henry and Rena Phillips, who launched the business in a second-floor space above an old furniture factory. Henry had already run “Henry the Pizza King.” Since the business location was a tough sell to customers, the real genius move came when he packed up his Nash Rambler with free pizza and started handing out samples in the local park. People liked what they tasted and Town Spa became a hit.
In 1962, Henry and Rena bought the building and moved the restaurant downstairs. In 1986 the business’ success continued, necessitating another move and a new building, where it still stands. As my husband says, “the new building is retro in the best way today, but was “contemporary” at the time. The previous building was dated.” He also admits that “it took a few visits before the new place’s ovens were seasoned just right.” Upon entering the building on this year’s trip, Josh immediately commented on the familiar smell. The basic 1955 pizza recipe is still used today, with some new varieties of pizzas, appetizers and salads introduced each year.
On our most recent visit, we were greeted by Nancy—one of many Town Spa servers who’s clearly a lifer and loves every minute of it. To the 12-year-old at the table, she opened with, “Anything to drink? Our lemonade and chocolate milk are the best.” When it was time for store-bought cake for this cousin’s birthday, Nancy had a piece of cake with us. I am quite sure this isn’t the first time she ate cake with diners.
Town Spa serves South Shore bar-style pizza. The 10-12-inch pizza features a very thin, crispy crust covered entirely with tomato sauce and gooey cheese. Such pizza is typically single serve. Many people order it “extra-crispy,” so the slightly burnt cheese and sauce that forms around the crust make “laced edges.” On this visit we had pepper and onion pizza and the infamous Greek salad. The pizza is topped with red and green peppers and very sautéed onions. The grease gives it all a glisten!
Crescent Ridge Dairy Bar follows most visits to Town Spa, if not any dinner out while in the area. Depending on how vacation plans work out, the “Cridge” as it is nicknamed, could be dinner.
This family business owned by the Parrish family opened in 1932. To this day, Crescent Ridge produces small-batch milk and super premium ice cream from the 44-acre farm just behind the Dairy Bar. The Dairy Bar opened in 1968, when the owners decided to put a surplus of milk to good use. The sweet treats needed a place to be sold, so the dairy bar was built. As it was when it started, people devour their ice cream, sitting on or in cars, while meandering the parking lot or at a metal picnic table. Over the years, the menu options have expanded, and the sizes have changed.
The new “small” is about a 3-cup serving and used to be the large. “Jimmies,” (aka sprinkles to non-New Englanders) are free and abundant. The teenage crew scooping and taking orders wear t-shirts tagged with “Cridge Crew.” Crescent Ridge products can be found in Massachusetts grocery stores and at the Boston Public Market. But if you can go, go. It’s not just dessert—it’s an experience.
Make your own ice cream at home with this recipe, but for South Shore Bar Pizza, try the recipe below. You can make it in the food processor, if you like, but I made it by hand and was pleased with the results.
South Shore Bar Pizza
Yields: 2- 12 inch pizzas
Prep time: 20 minutes
Cook time: 10 minutes
Inactive time: 18-48 hours
Total time: up to 48 hours
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar
3/4 teaspoon active yeast
4 teaspoon unsalted butter, at room temperature; cut into small pieces
4 teaspoon olive oil
3/4 cup water, ice-cold (34°F to 38°F)*
1 teaspoon table salt
Pizza sauce of your choice
Shredded mozzarella cheese
Pizza toppings of your choice
1. In the bowl combine the flour, sugar, and yeast.
2. Add the butter and oil and process until well mixed.
3. Add the water, strain out any ice cubes, in a steady stream.
4. Mix until the dough is just mixed with no dry flour, about 10 to 15 seconds.
5. Add more cold water, as needed.
6. Allow the dough to sit in the bowl, covered, for 15 minutes.
7. Add the salt and mix until an even ball forms and the dough pulls away from the bowl.
8. On a lightly oiled work surface, knead the dough until smooth and supple, about 30 seconds.
9. Place in a lightly oiled bowl, cover, and let rest until slightly puffy, about 90 minutes.
10. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and divide in half and shape each into a tight, smooth ball, pinching the seams on the bottom closed.
11. Transfer each ball to a small, lightly oiled bowl, turn to coat in oil,
12. Place seam-side down in bowl and tightly cover with plastic.
13. Let dough rest in the refrigerator for at least 18 hours and up to 48 hours.
To assemble and bake:
1. About 2 1/2 hours before baking, remove the dough from the refrigerator.
2. When it is at room temperature, grease the bottom and sides of two 12" round pizza pans.
3. Place one dough ball in the center of each pan.
4. Optional, drizzle each lightly with 1/2 teaspoon of olive oil.
5. Gently press the dough toward the sides of the pans.
6. If the dough tightens up, let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes before pressing once again.
7. Cover the dough in the pan loosely and let sit until puffy, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.
8. Preheat the oven to 500˚F to 550°F (or the highest temperature your pan allows).
9. Heat pizza stone or a cookie sheet in the oven.
10. Top each pizza with 1/2 cup of your favorite sauce. Spreading it evenly to the edge of the pan and making sure some flows over the edge toward the bottom of the pan.
11. Cover the sauce completely and evenly with cheese and other desired toppings, making sure to cover the edges thoroughly with cheese.
12. Bake the pizza about 8 to 10 minutes, until the cheese is bubbly and browned and the rim of the pie is well-browned.
13. Remove the pizza from the oven. Use an offset spatula to loosen the rim of the pizza from the pan. Carefully slide the pizza out of the pan and directly onto the pizza stone or heated cookie sheet.
14. Bake until browned and crisp on the bottom, 2 to 4 minutes.
15. Transfer the pizza to a wire rack and allow it to cool for 5 minutes before cutting and serving.
My husband said our home version was a close second. The mouth feel and flavor were good, and he didn’t miss the grease. For me Barnaby’s and Homer’s, are the classic suburban Chicago staples that transport me back to my childhood. I am sure your family has their go-to spots. Keep enjoying them and building family memories around food. And let’s be honest—having a few reliable favorites also means fewer “Where should we eat?” debates.
To build memories in the kitchen, consider a class at The Chopping Block. There are great ones coming up. August’s Tasting Table especially hits upon family, as Chef Elexis prepares recipes inspired by her grandmother.
