If you’ve ever dreamed of sipping wine on the slopes of a volcano, tasting chocolate from the oldest factory in Sicily, or making ravioli with flour milled just hours before, let me tell you - it’s all real, and I just lived it. This October, I had the incredible opportunity to lead a group of food-loving travelers on a culinary adventure through Sicily with our amazing partners at Onward Travel.
This trip was extra special for me; not just because of the food (though, wow, the food!) but because Sicily is part of my heritage. My father was born in a little town just south of Palermo, and he hadn’t been back to Sicily since he left and came to America when he was just 14 years old. It was so special to have him and my husband go on this amazing trip with me!
Sicilian culture is definitely one of abundance, and the island did not disappoint with the vast produce and culture it offers. There is nothing that cannot grow on this fertile land! It was awesome to try all of the food and the freshest ingredients. All of the fruit is fresh pressed, like this pomegranate juice, and seriously delicious. I am such a nerd for all of the history of food. There are so many things I learned and I can’t wait to share all of it with you.
We spent our first five nights in Ortigia, the ancient heart of Siracusa. Picture cobblestone streets, lemon trees perfuming the air, and piazzas that glow golden at sunset. Our view was gorgeous looking out into the vast sea. It’s a place where history whispers from every corner. We explored bustling markets, tasted fresh ricotta and Ragusano cheese, and even visited a chocolate factory that’s been crafting sweets since the 1800s (you know I was in heaven!). I got to taste every flavor chocolate bar that Antica Dolceria Bonajuto had to offer like sea salt bars, ginger, and tangerine. The spicy chocolate liquor was rich and thick like Hershey’s chocolate syrup and the chocolate stout that they make was like a Guinness but better! So, you know as a chocoholic I walked out of that store with one of everything.
I loved walking down these cute streets that wind in every direction leading to beautiful squares filled with people and gorgeous architecture everywhere you look. During our time here, I couldn’t believe how easy it was to get around and the similarities to Chicago. From the water to the east to point us in the right direction to the hotel, to a street lined with high end shops like Michigan Ave, and the parallel parking woes we all deal with in the city. The main difference was the slow pace atmosphere and way of life that all Sicilians embrace.
One of my favorite moments was shopping with a local chef in the market. We met up with Chef Alessia and visited a salumeria for a tasting of local salamis, cheeses, and wine. Then we proceeded to walk up and down the market aisles and taste fresh fried calamari, poached octopus, pistachio liquor and more! These market vendors were amazing to watch as they yelled for your attention and shouted all of their offerings to entice you to buy.
We purchased some ingredients from the vendors, and we were off to our cooking class. We learned some different tips and tricks to shaping arancini and Chef Alessia prepared some caponata, fried sardines and calamari to eat alongside our homemade arancini or fried risotto balls. We, of course, had a competition to see who followed the chef's rules and formed the best arancini!
How do you think I did?! Either way, they were delicious. It is all about balance between the amount of rice and filling and achieving a light crisp crust. We happen to make arancini in our Culinary Boot Camp, and I will make sure to pass on everything I learned from this class.
Another one of my most memorable moments was at SlowLife Family Farm. They offer a truly authentic Sicilian farm to table experience to celebrate Slow Food movement in the area. We made ravioli from freshly milled wheat flour, and I swear, you could taste the sunshine in every bite. We picked through their garden harvesting greens for a frittata and tomatoes for salad, herbs and nuts for homemade pesto. The land is incredible, but the story about how they even started is even more fascinating. I could have moved here and spent the rest of my life as a helping hand on this farm.
This husband and wife duo along with their trusty sous chef put the entire group to work in the most fun way possible that led to an incredible meal filled with warm toasts and songs that filled our hearts.
From Ortigia, we headed to an agriturismo nestled on the slopes of Mount Etna. Yes, the volcano! We ascended by minibus and peered into a crater; an experience that was both humbling and exhilarating.
The volcanic soil here produces some of Sicily’s most exciting wines, and we tasted them all: Carricante, Nerello Mascalese, and Nerello Cappuccio. Each sip told a story of the land. We went to a vineyard for lunch and a wine tasting and I was stunned to see the labels of one of the white wines called Etna Bianco because we actually sell it at The Chopping Block! We feature it in one of our Italian wine classes.
We also visited a pistachio farm in Bronte, where the nuts are so vibrant and flavorful they’re practically legendary. I dare say even magical considering they grow out of volcanic rocks! I couldn’t believe it, when you think of any kind of tree you assume that it grows from the ground in dirt but as our guide said the mountain is truly a wonder and it provides these impossible nuts. The farmers don’t even need to water these crops because the volcanic rocks basically are porous and absorb the water and release whatever the tree needs. You’ll see pistachios everywhere in Sicily but only the ones from Bronte are DOP, which means they go through rigorous certifications for authenticity.
One of my favorite things we tried with these pistachios was a vibrant green liquor and pistachio cream which is like Nutella or peanut butter but so much better, especially on a croissant! Most notably used in the infamous Dubai chocolate bars but the real deal is not vibrant green but rather more of a brownish color. So when you see anything pistachio that is neon green, chances are they are using food coloring.
Throughout the trip, we cooked together, laughed together, and shared meals that felt like celebrations. This journey reminded me why I love what I do. Food connects us to each other, to history, to a place. And Sicily? It’s a place that feeds the soul.
If you missed this trip, don’t worry we’re already dreaming up the next one. And if you’re curious about our other culinary adventures, check out our other blogs about different countries we travel to. Or come chat with me at a class. I’d love to tell you more. There are so many stories and pictures that I will be sure to share in future blogs. I will definitely be thinking of this trip for a long time.
Until then, eat the gelato. Always eat the gelato! As a Sicilian with a major sweet tooth, I highly recommend our baking and pastry classes as well.
