I was first introduced to the heirloom grains of Anson Mills when I moved to Atlanta years ago. While working at restaurants like One Eared Stag with Chef Robert Phalen and Miller Union under Chef Steven Satterfield, I learned to treat these grains with the respect they deserve. Whether it was farro piccolo or rice grits, we always honored their heritage and handled them with care.
The grain we used most often was Carolina Gold Rice. Not to be confused with other rices bearing the name "Carolina," Carolina Gold is a distinct and storied variety. This special rice’s history is believed to date back to the 17th century, first arriving at the port of Charleston from Madagascar. Over time, due to the changing Lowcountry environment, this prized rice nearly vanished. Thankfully, in the late 20th century, it was revived through the efforts of Anson Mills, Carolina Plantation Rice, and the Carolina Gold Rice Foundation.
So what makes Carolina Gold Rice so special?
You’ll know as soon as you begin cooking it. The aroma fills the kitchen with deep earthy and nutty notes, far more nuanced than anything you'd find in a typical grocery store bag of rice. The texture is equally remarkable. Fluffy, individual grains with an incredible chew. The flavor has a delicate floral quality, with subtle hints of hazelnut.
The Charleston Ice Cream Technique
While this rice can be cooked like any other variety, I was taught a distinctive Southern technique that was passed down to me by mentors in Atlanta. The process starts by boiling it in an excess of water, much like pasta. After draining, the rice is spread on a sheet tray and briefly dried in the oven with butter and bay leaf. The result is something elegant and comforting, affectionately nicknamed "Charleston Ice Cream."
You’ll find yourself eating it by the bowlful, just like the dessert.
Crab Fried Rice with Carolina Gold Rice and Red Kuri Squash
This dish demonstrates the Charleston Ice Cream technique and celebrates the arriving fall season.
The sweetness of the red kuri squash beautifully amplifies the natural sweetness of the crab. Aromatic shallots and garlic provide a savory base, while poblano pepper adds a touch of gentle heat and depth. A bit of preserved lemon introduces a punchy brightness that highlights the subtle complexities of the rice. And of course I added lots of herbs. Today, I had fresh scallions and dill on hand, but nearly any tender herb would work here.
Serves: 4-6
Prep Time: 15 minutes
Cook Time: 30 minutes
Total Time: 45 minutes
For the Rice:
6 cups water
2 bay leaves
A couple pinches of salt
A few cracks of pepper
1 cup Anson Mills Carolina Gold Rice
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
For the Fried Rice:
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
8 ounces high quality lump crab (I used flash frozen)
1/2 Red Kuri Squash, medium dice, tender skin left on
1 poblano pepper, small dice
1 shallot, sliced thin
3 garlic cloves, sliced thin
2-3 tablespoons preserved lemon, small dice
Cooked Carolina Gold Rice (from recipe above)
Chopped herbs of your choosing
Salt and pepper, to taste
For Serving:
Lots of herbs of your choosing
1. Preheat oven to 300 degrees F.
2. For the Rice: Season 6 cups of water with bay leaves, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, then add the rice. Let cook in the simmering water for about 8 minutes, or until al dente.
3. Drain the rice in a fine mesh sieve, spread out evenly on a silpat or parchment lined sheet tray, add chunks of butter throughout, and dry out in the oven for about 10 minutes. Stir occasionally. 
4. For the Fried Rice: In a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, melt the butter until bubbling, add the crab meat and cook until it is starting to brown. Be careful not to over cook (just looking for some nice color on one side), remove the crab with a slotted spoon and set aside.
5. Add the squash to the pan with the residual butter and sauté until caramelized and tender.
6. To the squash, add in the poblano, shallot, garlic and preserved lemon. Continue to sauté until aromatic.
7. Next add the cooked rice to the sauté pan, and sauté until thoroughly combined with the vegetable mixture.
8. Fold back in the caramelized crab with the chopped herbs.
9. For serving: distribute the fried rice into your favorite serving bowls. Generously garnish with fresh herbs.
This fried crab rice dish is an absolute favorite of mine. It comes together fairly easily, and is super comforting and satisfying.
I will be demonstrating a version of this very dish at my Tasting Table on October 21st. I’m excited to show you all how to put this recipe together, and show off some of my other techniques as well. I have some exciting tricks and treats planned so I hope you can join me!
