I have a fever, and the only prescription is a quality Wisconsin-Style Beer Battered Fish Fry.
I grew up swimming, waterskiing, and fishing in the waters of Lake Elizabeth in Twin Lakes, Wisconsin. I miss this lake often. Few things will bring me back to my childhood better than a good quality Wisconsin-style beer battered fish fry. I recall the numerous supper clubs in the surrounding area. The Pink House and Mad Dan’s in Twin Lakes. Marino’s in New Munster. Ray Radigan’s in Pleasant Prairie. Mars Resort in Lake Como. If there is one common denominator shared by these establishments (most bygone), it’s a Friday Night Fish Fry. Beer battered perch, shoestring potatoes, tartar sauce, caraway studded cabbage slaw, lemon slices. It’s comforting. It’s localized. It’s tradition.
Building on these cherished traditions and memories, I’d like to share some practical knowledge on how to create a truly authentic and delicious Wisconsin-style beer battered fish fry.
Selecting Fish
Choosing the proper fish is crucial. First and foremost, locate a reputable fishmonger. I have been trusting the fish department at Fresh Farms grocers for years. The fresh selection, knowledge of the fishmongers, and the experience here are outstanding. The staff at Fresh Farms are more than happy to skin, filet, portion any of the selections to your liking.
When choosing, I gravitate toward light, mild, and flaky fish. Cod and haddock are fish fry staples. Always a great selection. For another solid and durable selection, I also use halibut; a bit meatier than cod, but worth trying out. Two of my favorites, and both indicative of a great Wisconsin fish fry, are walleye and perch. These both have a fantastic flavor – mild, a tad sweet and “nutty” flavor. Perch filets tend to be on the smaller side, so they cook quickly and are perfectly acceptable with the thin, delicate skin on.
Me and my “big” catch. Lake perch, c.1977
I would be remiss if I didn’t mention bluegill. While this is better known to most as a panfish, or a freshwater fish that rarely exceeds the size of a frying pan. This handle also comes from the fact that most cooks will not go any further than sauteing this fish whole in a pan. For those, whose patience exceeds their hunger, fileting bluegill and beer battering for fish fry is superb! Your local fish monger may be able to order bluegill filets for you. They are frequently sold skin on/flash frozen, and this is perfectly acceptable.
Zoe and her bluegill, Lake Elizabeth, WI
Selecting Beer
Just as important as fish selection is beer selection. What to look for here? Mild flavor - malty, bready, roasty, light hops. In addition, crisp and bubbly carbonation. Start with light, crisp lagers. Miller High Life and Revolution Cold Time are good selections. Old Style is another fine choice with an elevated malt flavor. My go-to beer for beer batter is undoubtedly Pabst Blue Ribbon. It has the perfect amount of carbonation and a perfect balance of sweetness, hops and malt flavor that complement a mild, flaky fish. I mean, it has a blue ribbon, so it must be good… right?
How to Prepare Beer Battered Fish
The following recipe is more of a guideline as opposed to an exacting method/recipe. Many factors will affect the outcome. The type of beer used. The moisture content of the fish selected. This is a recipe that takes time and practice to perfect.
Beer Battered Fish
Serves: 4-6
Prep time: 10 minutes
Cook time: 5 minutes
Total time: 20 minutes
2 pounds fish filets
Kosher salt, coarse grind
6 oz. corn flour
6 oz. all-purpose flour
1 – 16oz. can of beer, lager, or pilsner, ice cold
Fryer oil, high temperature oil such as corn or canola oil heated to 350°
Fine salt (used to season the fish once done frying, the fine grains stick to the crispy batter rather than bounce off like a coarser salt)
1. Portion the fish filets thinly on the bias. Ideally, these portioned pieces should be about 5” long and around ½” – ¾” thick.
2. Lay the portioned fish pieces out onto paper towels to help absorb some of the excess water. I like to use Scot shop towels - one of my favorite “non-kitchen” kitchen tools. They are heavy-duty paper towels designed for heavy grease and absorbing moisture.
3. Season the fish with kosher salt.
For the Beer Batter:
1. Whisk together the corn flour and all-purpose flour until well blended.
2. Pour 6oz. ice cold beer into a mixing bowl. Elevate the pour to create a lot of foam/bubbles.
3. Add about 3oz. of corn flour mix to the surface of the beer.
4. Do not whisk or beat the beer and flour. Instead, you will “mix” the batter with a portion of fish. Mix by dunking the fish portion in the batter and swirling around the bowl. Ideally, there will be bubbles, and pockets of dry flour. Do not mix smooth. Continue to swirl the fish portion in the batter until it begins to stick. If there are lumps, it’s certainly okay, and really much desired. This helps to “lock” in some of the beer carbonation and thusly adds to the crispy, light, and airy crust of the batter – much like a good tempura. If the batter is a little thick, add some more beer. If too thin, add some more flour.
5. Once well coated, place the fish into fryer by holding it in the oil for a few moments with your fingers above the hot oil. Beads of batter should release from the fish and begin to fry on the sides of the basket (hang onto those, they are a great snack for later). Hold the fish for a few seconds until it starts to float then release it. Repeat with the rest of your filet portions.
6. Let the fish fry for up to three minutes. It will be golden and crispy.
7. Once out of the fryer, season the fish with fine salt.
Beer battered fish fry is best served with shoestring potatoes, cabbage slaw, tartar sauce, and lemon wedges. A couple of douses of malt vinegar will certainly elevate the flavors. I also will flash fry some parsley and celery leaves to add as a nice contrasting garnish to the meal.
So, there you have it – my guide to the ultimate Wisconsin-style beer battered fish fry. Join us at The Chopping Block for classes that will dive deep into not only technique and instruction, but in tradition and memories. If you are interested in learning more about fish, don't miss our Hands on Fish Butchery and Cookery on Wednesday, October 15 at 6pm. Now go forth, get some beer, fry some fish, and share this cherished tradition with those you love. I hope it cures whatever ails you!
Bluegill roundup c.1978, Lake Victoria, WI