The Chopping Blog gives us chefs a place to get things off our chest. Inspiration can come from anywhere: a seasonal shift, an upcoming event, an ingredient we love, a recent trip, or something we just can’t stop thinking about. Once that spark hits, we tend to go all in—down the rabbit hole, a little nerdy, and (hopefully) worth sharing.
This month, I’m offering up a dish that hits all of those notes.
The Seasonal Change
Spring approaches and I initially planned to take a deep dive into asparagus—techniques, variations, the whole thing. But before going too far, I checked the blog archive and found Chef Lisa’s All About Asparagus. It’s thorough. Very thorough. Selection, storage, health benefits, multiple cooking methods, even a recipe… aptly titled… it is all about asparagus.
So rather than reinvent the wheel, I’ll point you in her direction if you want the full asparagus breakdown.
Instead, I’ll focus on a dish that celebrates the ingredient in season: Spring Asparagus with Cantabrian Anchovy Butter, Limpa Crumb & Pecorino.
This is a dish built on restraint and quality—great ingredients, handled properly, each one pulling its weight.
An Upcoming Event
Next month, I’ll be hosting a Tasting Table at The Chopping Block. These dinners give us chefs a chance to showcase our style and influences. For April, I’m leaning into two things I love: seafood and the spirit of the Wisconsin supper club.
This asparagus dish will be part of that menu.
Anchovy butter (or a variation on beurre blanc) is one of my go-to preparations. It works with seafood, char-grilled steaks, and as I will demonstrate, it works well with fresh veggies. The method is simple: reduce shallots and white wine, add a touch of cream, then emulsify with butter. Finish with lemon juice and rough chopped anchovies.
The key is using Cantabrian anchovies, widely considered among the best in the world. Harvested from the cold, nutrient-rich waters of northern Spain, they’re known for their depth of flavor and silky texture. They bring salinity and umami without overwhelming the dish. Done right, they enhance everything around them rather than dominate it.
Ingredients I Love
There are two additions here I reach for constantly: limpa crumbs and Piment d’Espelette.
Swedish Limpa is a slightly sweet rye bread flavored with molasses, orange zest, and warm spices like anise, fennel, and caraway. It’s a Midwest staple and something I associate with classic supper club meals. For this dish, I tear the bread by hand into irregular pieces, toss with olive oil and salt, and toast until golden and crisp. The result is a crunchy, aromatic contrast that adds both texture and subtle sweetness.
Piment d’Espelette, from the Basque region of France, is a mild chile with a gentle heat and a slightly smoky, fruity character. It’s often joked that it’s the “hottest spice in a French kitchen,” which tells you everything you need to know. I rarely cook with it—instead, I use it as a finishing touch. A light dusting adds color, aroma, and just enough heat to round things out.
A Recent Trip
A trip to Tuscany in 2024 deepened my appreciation for Pecorino. It reigns supreme in the Tuscan Hills. While Parmigiano Reggiano is balanced and nutty, Pecorino is sharper, saltier, and more assertive. It has a bite to it that I’ve come to really enjoy.
These days, it also seems to reign supreme in my fridge. I’ll slice thin shards for a quick snack—or, in this case, grate just a small amount over the finished dish. It’s important not to overdo it. The anchovy butter already brings plenty of salinity and umami, and the goal is balance, not competition.
Bringing It Together
At its core, this dish is simple: well-cooked asparagus, a balanced sauce, and a few thoughtful accents. But when each component is done right, the result feels complete—bright, savory, textured, and unmistakably seasonal.
It’s a reminder that great cooking doesn’t always mean complexity. Sometimes it’s just about choosing the right ingredients, treating them with care, and letting them do what they’re meant to do.
If you are interested in hearing more about my dish and enjoying a great meal, I will be hosting a Tasting Table on Tuesday, April 28 at 6pm focusing on seafood and Wisconsin supper clubs. Spots are limited, so please don’t hesitate!
Chef Nolan’s Seafood Supper Club Menu:
- Bull Run Bourbon Old Fashioned or Classic Shirley Temple
- Steelhead Trout Carpaccio, beet-cured, cherry smoked
- White & Green Michigan Asparagus, Cantabrian anchovy butter, shaved Pecorino, limpa crumble
- PBR-Battered Perch, caraway-studded slaw, old-school tartar
- Door County Cherry Clafoutis, brown butter, maple
Spring Asparagus with Cantabrian Anchovy Butter, Limpa Crumb & Pecorino
Yield: 4 servings
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 20 minutes
Total Time: 30 minutes
2 bunches asparagus, trimmed and peeled
1 tablespoon whole butter
2 (3/4-inch thick) slices limpa bread, crust removed
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 shallot, minced
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 ounce heavy cream
1 stick (8 tablespoons) unsalted butter, cold and diced
5 Cantabrian anchovy fillets, finely chopped
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1/4 bunch chives, finely sliced
Pinch of Piment d’Espelette
Kosher salt, to taste
Pecorino, shaved (for finishing)
1. Make the limpa crumb.
Preheat oven to 375°F. Tear limpa bread into small, irregular pieces. Toss with olive oil and a pinch of salt. Spread on a baking sheet and toast for 6–8 minutes, until golden and crisp. Set aside.
2. Prepare the anchovy butter.
In a small saucepan, combine minced shallot and white wine. Bring to a simmer and reduce until nearly dry. Add heavy cream and reduce slightly.
Lower heat and whisk in cold butter, a few pieces at a time, until emulsified. Do not let the sauce boil.
Stir in chopped anchovies, lemon juice, and a small pinch of salt. Keep warm.
3. Prep and cook the asparagus.
Using a vegetable peeler, peel the lower two-thirds of each asparagus spear.
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Blanch asparagus for 2 minutes until bright green and just tender. Transfer to an ice bath, then drain.
In a sauté pan, melt 1 tablespoon butter and lightly sauté asparagus with a small pinch of kosher salt until warmed through and lightly glazed.
4. Assemble
Arrange asparagus on a platter. Spoon anchovy butter over the top.
Finish with toasted limpa crumbs, shaved Pecorino, sliced chives, and a light dusting of Piment d’Espelette. Enjoy!
…. and this is four minutes later.
How fast will you clean this plate of asparagus? Find out at my Tasting Table next month!