Sweet and salty are two flavors that the body naturally craves.
Salted caramel is one example of sweet and salty that is ubiquitous nowadays. Today I will explore a unique take on the classic salted caramel.
Years ago, I was the morning chef at a Southeast Asian-inspired restaurant in St. Louis. I learned so much about the vibrant ingredients of the region, particularly Thailand, and grew a deeper understanding of the flavors that I already loved.
Some of the ingredients that I had a chance to work with were exotic to me at the time. I was introduced to palm sugar, an unrefined sugar derived from tree sap, that has more complex notes when compared to cane sugar. Galangal, a cousin of ginger, has a more floral flavor than its relative. I was familiar with Thai chilies and lemongrass, but I was able to investigate their nuances more closely. And fish sauce is a key ingredient in Thai cuisine.
I used combinations of these ingredients in many ways, including a fish sauce caramel. This was a base sauce that was used to create other sauces, marinate meats, glaze raw fish, and many other applications.
This caramel sauce is similar in concept to the salted caramel that you may be familiar with. Like the classic, delivering sweet and salty flavors in a balanced way. However, the fish sauce caramel is bringing a lot more to the table: a combination of sugars, aromatics, and chilies bring a background depth of flavor. And the fish sauce, while very pungent on its own, contributes a very welcome fermented funk. Let’s explore this incredible sauce and its possibilities.
Fish Sauce Caramel
Yield: 2 cups
Active Time: 45 minutes
Inactive Time: 1 hour
Total Time: 1 hour 45 minutes
1 1/2 cups fish sauce (I used Squid brand, a Thai fish sauce)
3 disks of palm sugar (about 1 cup)
1/2 cup dark brown sugar
1/2 cup honey
12 garlic cloves, lightly crushed
1 cup lemongrass, roughly chopped
1/2 cup galangal, roughly chopped
4 fresh Thai chilies or other fresh chili peppers (I used fresnos because my shop was out of Thai chilies)
6 dried Thai chiles or 2 tablespoon chili flakes
1. Combine all of the ingredients in a saucepot.
2. Bring to a boil to melt the sugars, then reduce to a low simmer.
3. Simmer and reduce by about one third, 30 to 40 minutes.
4. Let the mixture steep for an hour, strain and cool.
5. Store in a jar in the refrigerator for weeks.
Now that we have the base sauce, let's see what we can do with it. Salted caramel corn is a favorite snack of mine. I have a feeling that a fish sauce version will be an incredible treat.
Fish Sauce Caramel Corn
Yield: 6 cups
Active Time: 5 minutes
Inactive Time: 30 minutes
Total Time: 35 minutes
6 cups popped corn
1/4 cup fish sauce caramel
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon baking soda
1. In a saucepan, melt together fish sauce caramel and butter, swirling occasionally to emulsify.
2. Take off of the heat and stir in the baking soda. It will foam up immediately creating a light coating that will cling nicely to the popcorn.
3. Quickly pour the mixture into a bowl with the popped corn and toss together to coat.
4. Spread the caramel corn onto a parchment or silicone lined sheet tray.
5. Bake at 250 degrees for 30 minutes.
6. Let cool and enjoy.
My assumptions were correct. I believe that this sweet and salty caramel popcorn was an improvement on the classic. The fish sauce caramel gave the snack a more interesting and unexpected flavor.
Now, I want to create a meal using the fish sauce caramel as a flavoring agent, as well as a glaze for a protein. I am going to lean into the Thai flavor profile and make a stir fried noodle dish. Lime juice, additional galangal and garlic, and toasted sesame oil created a perfectly balanced sauce for my noodles and vegetables. Sweet, salty, spicy, sour, and umami. This had it all.
I had a beautiful ribeye in my freezer, so I thawed it out to glaze with the fish sauce caramel and butter. This would also work for shrimp, ribs, and definitely chicken wings.
Pak Choi and Celery Noodles with Glazed Ribeye
Servings: 4
Active Time: 20 minutes
Inactive Time: 10 minutes
Total Time: 30 minutes
For the sauce:
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons galangal, minced
1/4 cup fish sauce caramel
1/4 cup lime juice (about 2 limes or one big juicy lime)
2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
For the noodles:
Neutral oil
2 cups cooked rice noodles
2 pak choi, quartered
6 celery hearts, sliced on the bias
1/2 onion, julienne
Pinch of salt
For the steak:
6-8 ounce ribeye, seasoned with salt and pepper
Neutral oil
2 tablespoons fish sauce caramel
2 tablespoons butter
Garnish:
Thai basil, mint, and cilantro
1. In a small bowl, whisk together all of the ingredients for the sauce.
2. Heat a sauté pan over high heat and add about 1 tablespoon of oil. Sauté the vegetables, with a pinch of salt, until tender.
3. Add the noodles, followed by the sauce, and stir fry until well incorporated. Transfer to a platter.
4. Wipe the saute pan clean and return to high heat with a tablespoon of oil. Sear the steak until it nearly reaches your desired temperature. Then add the caramel and butter to baste the steak until it is glossy and caramelized.
5. Rest the glazed steak for 10 minutes, slice, and place on top of the stir fried noodles.
6. Garnish with herbs.
This dinner was incredible. The ribeye had a gorgeous lacquered coating, and the crisp vegetables and noodles were wonderfully punchy. Fresh herbs are something I always adore. The mix of Thai basil, cilantro, and mint is a Thai staple.
I had to experiment with a dessert, as well. This ice cream sundae was a magnificent merger of flavor, texture, and temperature. I thought the fish sauce caramel might lean too savory for dessert. But it was actually a beautiful harmony of sweet and salty, especially with the toasted coconut and peanut garnish.
Ice Cream Sundae with Fish Sauce Caramel, Coconut, and Peanuts
Serves 2
3 scoops vanilla ice cream
2 tablespoons fish sauce caramel
2 tablespoon toasted coconut
2 tablespoons toasted peanuts, chopped
I had so much fun playing with these flavors. Some ingredients are meant to be together. Sweet and salty will always make the mouth water. And sometimes you should experiment and explore ways to push bold flavors in new directions.
The Chopping Block has a class for almost every cuisine. Whether it’s Korean BBQ on the Grill, or a Spanish Paella Party. It’s your turn to have fun with new flavors!
