Chardonnay occupies a unique place in modern wine-dom. It’s the world’s #1-selling white wine: in the U.S., wine made from the Chardonnay grape beats the #1-selling red (Cabernet Sauvignon) by about 2 million cases & trounces our #2-selling white (Pinot Grigio) by about 10 million cases.
Even so, Chardonnay has its own society of haters, the ABC (Anything but Chardonnay) Club.
This love-it-or-hate-it position may be caused by Chardonnay’s greatest asset – adaptability.
Chardonnay grows nearly everywhere. In cold climates, the wines express green apple crispness; in warm climates, flavors resemble a squishy mango. The grape accepts every wacky whim a winemaker throws at it, from uplifting bubbles to woodsy, earthy oak. Sugar levels run from bone dry to noticeably sweet (in the U.S., we perceive sweetness at 6 grams per liter of sugar, or 6 g/l R.S.) In 40 years, I’ve experienced one dessert Chardonnay (about 45 g/l R.S.) and it was delish! In price, Chardonnay packs grocery store bottom shelves. At the same time, the average price for the 100% Chardonnay Chevalier-Monthrachet, d’Auvenay approaches $23,000 per bottle, about $906 per ounce.
So, for all you ABC’ers, the problem may be that you’re drinking the wrong Chardonnay.
Despite Chardonnay’s diversity, food pairing is easy. A standard winemaking practice plumps up Chardonnay with diacetyl, an organic compound with buttery flavor, perfect to pair with buttery recipes. And since butter is one of our favorite things at The Chopping Block, we offer these prominent Chardonnay styles, to enjoy at home or during your culinary class.
Elegance and Acidity from France
France’s cool climate and mineral-laden soils produce lean flavors. Oak barrels, which are primarily employed for oxygenation, are re-used often to diminish oaky flavors.
Macon Blanc, Thevenet et Fils "Pierreclos" (Burgundy, France), $32.00: 100% Chardonnay, from the Mâconnais region where Chardonnay first grew. By law, the wine is no-oak. Dynamic and dry, with green apple and mineral flavors, Macon is a classic aperitif and enhancement to lighter recipes involving butter, such as the regional specialty, Escargots à la Bourguignonne.
Chassagne-Montrachet, Jean-Marc Pillot (Burgundy, France), $125.00: A classic beauty, balancing mouth-filling white fruit with powerful mineral complexity and long, elegant finish. Pour the wine early to allow its length and breed to develop in the glass; serve slightly cool. Grown in France’s Cote d’Or (Golden Slope), one of the wine world’s most prestigious regions. Pair this savory wine with browned butter recipes, including lobster, mushrooms, even steak!
Grand Cru Brut Blanc de Blancs, Champagne Pierre Moncuit-Delos (Champagne, France), $82.00: This 100% Chardonnay Champagne is matured on lees (spent yeast cells), stimulating autolysis, a natural process imparting caressing mouthfeel and toasted brioche flavors. Rich, round and creamy, I often serve it during TCB wine classes with Brie baked in pastry.
Baked Brie en Croute
Yield: 8 servings
Active time: 15 minutes
Start to finish: 40 minutes
1/2 sheet puff pastry, thawed
One 8-ounce wheel of brie
1 egg, well beaten with 1 teaspoon water
Crackers and/or sliced baguette
- Preheat the oven to 400°.
- Roll the pastry dough lightly with a rolling pin to make it square. Set the brie in the center of the square. Trim the dough to 3 inches all the way around the wheel. (You can save the scraps and use them to cut out decorative appliques for the top.) Brush the pastry with the egg wash.
- Fold the edges of the dough over the cheese so they meet or overlap, and press to seal closed. Place the wrapped cheese on a parchment-lined sheet tray, seam side down.
- Brush the top and sides of the pastry with more egg wash. If desired, decorate with with leaves, flowers, etc. cut out of the extra dough. Cut one or two small vents in the top.
- Bake until the pastry is golden, about 25 minutes. Don’t worry if some of the cheese begins to ooze out!
- Serve warm with crackers and bread.
The New World of Chardonnay
For better and worse, our West Coast’s amplified sunshine ripens Chardonnay to high sugar, resulting in wine of rich alcohol and soft acid. Thankfully, the oaky Chardonnay trend is giving way to wines of little to no oak.
Chardonnay, Raeburn (Sonoma County, CA), $25.00: Layers of tree fruit, brown spice and vanilla flavors, grown near the ocean in relatively cool conditions. Serve as a satisfying cocktail and to complement rich appetizers and seafood, vegetables and even meats prepared with butter.
Chardonnay "La Revanche" J. C. Somers Vintner (Willamette Valley, Oregon), $39.00: Native Oregonian Jay Somers is a 30-year winemaker, devoted to his band (Portland Cement), his dogs (German Shepherds) and to the expression of Willamette Valley's terroir in elegant wine. With France’s mineral-driven, no-oak Chardonnay as a beacon, "La Revanche" is firm, complex and focused. Serve as a rich cocktail and complement to seafood, poultry and vegetable dishes, especially prepared with butter.
Chardonnay “Reserve”, Barra (Mendocino, California), $34.00: Oak lovers, this rich, round oaky wine is for you, especially during our up-coming grilling season!
Everything We Love About California Chard
Chardonnay, The Paring (Santa Barbara County, CA), $34.00: TCB’s new addition is supple and round with ripe appley flavor, snappy finish and delicate baking spice accent from a light hand with oak. 11 months aged on the lees for easy complexity. Serve for cocktails and to complement seafood, poultry, veggie and pasta dishes with butter. Winemaker Matt Dees calls it a “pop ‘n pour”. That works for us and we hope for you, too!
For a break from Chardonnay and other “international style” wines, join us on Friday, May 1 at 6:30pm for Spanish Wine and Tapas Pairing. We’ll explore Spain’s unique wines with Spanish-inspired small plates with flavors certain to surprise everyone! Generous tasting portions of each dish – including beef tenderloin - will be served. For the complete menu and to register, please visit: Spanish Wine and Tapas Pairing.
