As a chef, I love cooking with the seasons.
One of my favorite things about running a restaurant was building relationships with farmers. I would receive weekly lists of what they had at the moment. They would pull up to the restaurant in their pickup truck and show me what they harvested that day. I would always say that the farmers actually wrote the daily menus. What they had would determine what we served.
The haul that the farmers would present was everchanging. In the fall, we would start to see winter squash, broccoli, and brussels sprouts. Apple and pears would be abundant. The winter months would provide root vegetables, which I love. My favorite vegetable is probably celery root. Spring time was exciting because of the spring peas, onions, and green garlic. And that fleeting moment of the chef favorite ramps coming through the door.
Summer would always be the season that us chefs would look forward to most of all. Summer squashes, cucumbers and beans. Stone fruits, berries and melons. So many vibrant colors and fresh flavors. All of which would be featured prominently on our summertime menus.
My summer favorite, and the one I anticipate the most, is the beautiful bounty of tomatoes. It starts with the green tomatoes that I love to pickle and fry. Then come the slicers and beefsteaks. The cherry and plum varieties. All of the bright and juicy heirloom tomatoes that you can handle. And don’t get me started on Sungolds. They are like candy.
But today we are in the middle of March in Chicago. Summer tomatoes are still months away. What is a chef to do?
Maybe I should have stocked up at the Farmers Market at the end of last summer. I could have canned and preserved them to get me through until the next summer. The truth is I live in a city apartment. I don’t have the space for that.
I could pay a premium for those bright red tomatoes that you see at the grocery store in the cold months. I resist doing that because I don’t know where those things really come from, and I can’t justify paying what they are asking.
Right next to those “premium” winter tomatoes are the Roma tomatoes. They are pennies in comparison. I can and will use these inexpensive, out of season Roma tomatoes and make something delicious.
In their raw form, these Roma tomatoes are nothing special. When you slice them open you will find pale colored flesh, little to no juice, and the taste is negligible.
For years, I have been “curing” Roma tomatoes. What I am doing is essentially oven drying them to remove moisture and concentrate the flavor. I then store them in oil to preserve. It is a lengthy, but super simple process. With some aromatics and patience, the result is literally bursting with flavor.
Cured Tomatoes
Yields: 2 cups
Prep Time: 5 minutes
Inactive Time: 3-4 hours
Total Time: 3-4 hours, 5 minutes
6 Roma tomatoes
1 small bunch of thyme sprigs
1 cup blended oil
Salt and pepper to taste
1. Preheat your oven to 225 degrees F.
2. Slice the tomatoes into halves, quarters or eighths (chef’s choice).
3. Line up the sliced tomatoes, skin side down, on a sheet tray with a rack.
4. Drizzle with 2-3 tablespoons of the oil.
5. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
6. Lay thyme sprigs over top and in between the tomatoes.
7. Slowly roast in the oven for 3 to 4 hours, or until they have reduced in size by at least half. Be careful not to burn.
8. Cool completely, then transfer to a jar and cover with the remaining oil.
9. Store in your refrigerator for weeks.
The result of slow roasting these bland tomatoes is incredible. They have an intense, nuanced tomato flavor, and should be a little juicy, or jammy, in the center. They are packed with an umami punch.
I have never really been a fan of grocery store sundried tomatoes. Whether in a jar or bag, the flavor has always been a little off putting to me. They are often too acidic and the texture is not right. These “cured tomatoes” are far superior in my opinion.
Using Cured Tomatoes
I love having these tomato treats in my refrigerator. I will find myself grabbing a fork and having a snack right out of the jar. They can also add a burst of flavor to countless dishes.
I currently have a cured tomato tabbouleh on my private chef menu. The flavorful roasted tomatoes go beautifully with the herbaceous salad.
You can use them as a condiment or in place of fresh tomatoes as well. I used to have a burger on a bar menu which featured my cured tomatoes. The addition was like an elevated ketchup.
Recently I was craving a Cobb Salad. I went all out and created the Ultimate Cobb Salad. I started with the standards. A bed of romaine lettuce, crispy bacon, avocado, boiled egg, and a mustardy red wine vinaigrette using the oil from the tomatoes. I then added some pickled red onions and giardiniera. I decided to make my own chicken nuggets and pile on some cured tomatoes. It was certainly the best Cobb Salad that I have ever encountered.
While you are waiting for tomato season, try your hand at these cured tomatoes. They will definitely elevate your dinner. The Chopping Block is also the place to take your cooking to the next level. Come and check out our hands-on Plant Forward Plates to continue to develop your vegetable game, and Elevated Sauces for Everyday Cooking to finish all of your plates strong. Both classes are coming next week!
